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Yamaha Xj600 Krovimo rėlė

Sveiki Motomanai iskilo problema nebekrauna mano Yamaha xj 600r 94m kas galejo nutikti? kaip suzinoti ar apvijos kaltos ar rele? ir ar galima pritaikyti nuo kito motociklo ja?

Pritaikyt galima. O apvijas galima su paprasciausiu testeriu patikrint

issiardziau generatoriu vielyciu galai kyso, lituota kazkas nedalituota tai ryt vesiu kad sutvarkytu nes pats nebuvau su tuos susidures tai nzn ka prie ko lituot bent schema butu... o kaip patikrinti ar rele veikia ar ir testeriu galima?

Kiek teko girdet, tai apvijas sutvarko bet trumpam- vel lakas nusilupa, atsiklijuoja ir t.t.
Krovimo rele irgi galima patikrint testeriu matuojant varza (yra spec lenteles). Bet cia tik is bedos. Susitvarkyk pirma su generatoriaus apvijom (patariu pakeist), o jei ir tada nekraus- ziurek rele...

krovimo rele ne su testeriu reikia tikrint matuojant varza o paduodant tam tikra ytampa ir ziuret kad butu nevirsytu normu

Citata:

Cituoju: Domasius Kiek teko girdet, tai apvijas sutvarko bet trumpam- vel lakas nusilupa, atsiklijuoja ir t.t. Krovimo rele irgi galima patikrint testeriu matuojant varza yra spec lenteles).

butu idomu pamatyti "spec.lenteles"su paprastu testeriu patikrinti elektronini rele -reguliatoriu

Jei idomu - prasau
 

Citata:

Cituoju: Domasius Jei idomu - prasau

tik nelaikyk uz kabinejimasi :
cia tikrinamas tik diodu tiltelis.be to, matuojama ne ju varza.

U=IR

Citata:

Cituoju: Domasius U=IR

na ,kad realizuoti siuo atveju ta formule ,reikes dvieju testeriu ir bus netikslu.
ir nelabai ,turbut, reikia nes diodu parametrai charakterizuojami kitaip(be abejo,jie turi vidine varza)

Teisingai veplys sako.
Be kintamos ytampos saltinio reles nepamatuosi.
O ta lentele tik patikrint ar diodai nepramusti.

Prikelsiu tema, pas mane xj diversion S, krovimo rele 5 kontaktu ir lik ji nusprogo, nuo ko galima butu pritaikyti?Ka patarsit?

Citata:

Cituoju: MAKAS^ Prikelsiu tema, pas mane xj diversion S, krovimo rele 5 kontaktu ir lik ji nusprogo, nuo ko galima butu pritaikyti?Ka patarsit?

manualas rodo ,kad nieko mandro ten nera.tiks bet kurio moto rele-reguliatorius,
kurio trys laidai eina i alternatoriu(generatoriu),o like du "+" ir "-".jei bus papildomi -reikia ziureti,ne vissos tiks.
be abejo ,atkreipk demesi,kad to moto naudojamas elektro sistemos galingumas butu panasus arba didesnis.
pvz negali deti reles nuo 125 kubu birbynes su 15-35 W galingumo priekine lempa.( pvz ,gal pas tave dvi atskiros sviesu lemputes ir ilgos jungiasi kartu su trumpom-tingiu aiskintis )jei konkreciai-tiks pvz CBR reles.
vien zo ,visu neisvardinsi

nuo bet kokio motociklo su trifaziu generatorium

Citata:

Cituoju: CelebreX nuo bet kokio motociklo su trifaziu generatorium

kai kurie trifaziai turi zadinimo apvija

vainiau mano senam xj pritaike rele nuo suzukio kaskokio nuvariau pas vienus meistrus prie regitros ir sutvarke jie randasi prie regitros sukant y kaire ir ten toliau pavaziavus tokiuose sandeliuose

Citata:

Cituoju: Zmogus vainiau mano senam xj pritaike rele nuo suzukio kaskokio nuvariau pas vienus meistrus prie regitros ir sutvarke jie randasi prie regitros sukant y kaire ir ten toliau pavaziavus tokiuose sandeliuose

Tu sneki turbut apie motodalys.lt ar panasiai, srotiniai ten. Reikes paziuret, gal GSX tiks.

Tai taip srotnikai bet uz 200 pinigu pritaige nuo suzukio ir be problemu 14.50 krove viena kaskokia prasta buvo o kita ydejo ir NO PROBLEM

Krovimo rele krauna tik 13,1, jokiu manuale rekomenduojamu 14.5v pas mane nekrauna, net sukelus apsukas iki 5000 rpm, pati rele turi 5 laidus, raudona (pliusas), juoda (minusas) ir trys balti (pliusai), kiekvienas baltas kintamai rodo 6.5v. Kiek pas jus uzkurtas xj krauna? idetos led lempos, net jos ant laisvu apsuku mirksi nuo sroves trukumo. Niekur nerandu kiek is generatoriaus 3 laidu kiekvienas turi duoti voltu, dabar nesuprantu ar keisti krovimo rele ar ziureti generatoriu, nors pastarasis vizualiai atrodo labai gerai

Siaip nesvarbu nuo kokio motociklo ta rele, jei rastum pasiskolinti 5 laidu, labai parastas budas butu suzinoti, kas cia kaltas.

Kopijuoju medziaga gedimo paieskai http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-syst....

O cia tekstas is nuorodos:

The defining factor regardless of motorcycle brand/year/model is that your bike has the discreet 3-phase Stator/Generator and Rectifier/Regulator arrangement

This is about replacing the standard equipment Regulator/Rectifier with a more efficient component. You can do this in event of failure rather than replace with the same stock component, or you can even do as a preventive measure if desired.

As a prologue, let me introduce a basic troubleshooting process to determine whether you have a charging system failure.

Diagnostics:

A good Multi-meter is a pre-requisite.


Record your battery voltage under the follow conditions
1) Ignition off, unloaded battery.
2) Ignition on, headlights on, not running
3) Bike started, running at idle

For condition 1, should be at least in the high 12.x range if fully charged.

In condition 2, your voltage should not drop much below 12.0 at worst. (It may continue to drop – hopefully slowly! – as your lights will be discharging it. However this should be a slow decline)
If it does drop immediately into the 11’s, your battery is insufficiently charged – if it was just charged from a battery charger however, then it indicates your battery no longer has sufficient capacity to retain charge/supply current to load and should be replaced.

Condition 3 is what we are most interested in with respect to charging capability.
Voltage should be at least in the 13’s at all engine rpm. You may detect it will fall off slightly as you raise engine rpm. This is not atypical performance. A simple mod that can enhance your charging voltage to the battery can be achieved by this modification outlined in this thread. That should give you performance in the 14V+ range.

What if you have less than 13V?
First thing to check is the fuse in the charging circuit. Ask on the forum for your particular model which one you should check if in doubt.

Next, examine the wires and connectors between the stator output and the R/R input (three wire harness and connectors) – are these charred/melted due to excessive heating? This is fairly common result of poor connection between the mating terminals. See later in thread for examples of this issue & suggested replacements.

A ‘cold’ resistance check for shorted diode/SCR:
Unplug both input & output plugs from R/R;
With your meter set to read resistance (use a diode test if the your multi-meter has one), test from each pin of the three pin plug, to both the red & black wired pins of the 4-pin plug; NONE of these should read short circuit (zero resistance); depending which way you bias the test leads, you may get some reading (from the forward bias of the component) but it must absolutely not be a short. If you see a short on any of these readings the R/R is defective.

Next, do a resistance check on the stator (check at the cable connector going back towards the stator itself).
Measure between the three respective combinations of the three pins:
1-2
2-3
3-1
This time each of these should measure almost short circuit (very low resistance in order or about 1 ohm)

This next check is probably the simplest/quickest way of determining a stator problem
- in majority of cases a bad stator will be indicated by failing following test:
Check resistance from any one pin to the engine ground terminal – this should not read any indication – maximum resistance or open-circuit.
If you read ‘short’ in that last test, then your stator is bad.
(if open, it is not quite guaranteed your stator is good however - but in majority of cases a failed stator will fail this isolation test)

Check the AC voltage output from the stator with engine running:
Leave stator disconnected from the R/R and start the engines.
With meter set to read AC Volts check
1-2
2-3
3-1
All three should be the same value – any significant difference of one reading will indicate a bad phase and the stator is probably defective.
At idle this should be ~ 20V* and rise to ~ 70V* at 5K rpm.
I hesitate to use absolute numbers here as this can be different between models and test equipment and especially the engine rpm!
What you are looking for is same value between phases and like increase on each phase as rpm increases.
If any of the above tests raises suspicion, pull the cover & inspect the stator. It is simple to do and can set your mind at ease by seeing what it looks like. Hopefully NOT with 1/3 of it a black charred mess!

If you have to replace the stator and R/R, especially because of a shorted R/R and excess current drain, be especially careful to ensure that your wiring has not been compromised. Replace any cable &/or connector plug that is not in optimum condition.